There are three main types of heating and plumbing systems in the UK - gravity fed, mains fed with a combi boiler and mains fed unvented.

The diagram below will help you identify the correct system.

There is a Salamander Pumps product available for improving water performance in these plumbing systems. 

For a gravity fed system choose CT, Right Pump or EVE. To boost mains water to a combi boiler choose CombiBoost, HomeBoost or AccuBoost. For unvented choose AccuBoost.

A gravity fed system is identified by a cold-water storage tank, usually stored in a loft, and a hot water cylinder. These systems rely on gravity to force water around the system, with the height of the cold-water storage tank determining the pressure throughout the system. 

Cold water is delivered to the cold-water storage tank from the water mains. Cold water from the cold-water storage tank is then supplied to the outlets around the system, such as taps, toilets, showers and baths.

The cold-water storage tank also feeds the hot water cylinder, where a heating coil from the boiler or immersion heater will cause the cold water to become hot. Once an outlet requiring hot water is opened, gravity will force cold water from the cold-water storage tank into the hot water cylinder, this will then force hot water out from the top of the cylinder, delivering hot water to the open outlet. 

It is common for gravity fed systems to suffer with low pressure, installing one of our gravity fed shower pumps can help to improve the pressure, click here to see our range gravity-fed shower pumps.

Before choosing a gravity fed shower pump it is important to know whether your system is positive head of negative head, click here for further information.

If you're unsure which product you need read our guide to selecting the right product, or use our product selector tool. 

A gravity-fed system is either positive or negative head, this indicates if the height of the cold-water storage tank is sufficient enough to create a natural flow of water within the system.

A system is positive head if a natural flow exists from gravity alone. A pump may be required if the natural flow from gravity is weak. You can check if you have a positive head system if there is more than 600mm between the base of the cold-water storage tank and the highest point in the system.

A system is negative head if there is no natural flow from gravity, a pump will be necessary in these systems. You can check if you have a negative head system if there is 600mm or less between the base of the cold-water storage tank and the highest point in the system.

You can also check if you have a negative head system if you time how long it takes to fill a measuring jug and:

• it takes more than 30 seconds to get 2 litres of water from a mixed tap or shower (probably the highest one in your home) or
• it takes more than 30 seconds to get 1 litre of water from either the hot or cold tap.

A positive head pump is only suitable for use in a positive head system. A universal/negative head pump is suitable for use in both positive and negative head installations, so if you’re unsure then choose a universal/negative head pump. 

If you're unsure which product you need read our guide to selecting the right product, or use our product selector tool. 

Regenerative shower pumps, such as our CT range of pumps, have a water wheel impeller inside the end of the pump. Water enters the shower pump through the inlet, the impeller spins the water around inside the impeller casing, building pressure as the water travels around the end of the pump. Between the inlet and the outlet of the shower pump there is a stripping block, this strips the water from the impeller and directs the water out of the top of the pump.

Centrifugal pumps, such as our Right Pump range and EVE, use centrifugal force to increase water pressure within a system. Water enters through the inlet on the end of the shower pump, filling the impeller chamber and the impeller. As the impeller spins, water is thrown outwards using centrifugal force, this builds higher pressure within the chamber which forces water out the top of the pump.

This method of increasing pressure results in a higher flow efficiency than with a regenerative shower pump, so installations with multiple bathrooms can benefit from installing a centrifugal pump.

Water around the pump doesn't always mean that the pump is leaking, sometimes the leak is from the pipes that are above the pump so check those first.

If the leak is coming from the pump then please contact our technical support team on 0191 516 2002 or email tech@salamanderpumps.co.uk

This means that the pump is detecting a flow of water or a change of pressure in the system (depending on which type of pump you have) and this is causing the pump to activate.

If the pump has a pressure vessel (as shown in the picture) then it may be that your system has a leak. Click here for further information.

If your pump is positive head and doesn't have a pressure vessel and is turning on and off during use, this is most likely due to the amount of water coming into the pump not being enough to make the pump kick in.  Salamander pumps require 2 litres per minute per side to activate them so it might be that the flow is stopping and starting.

This is most likely to be caused by damage to the pump.  Please contact our technical team on 0191 516 2002 or email tech@salamanderpumps.co.uk for further advice.

If your pump isn't starting, it's probably because:

• There is not enough flow to start the pump (2 litres per minute flow of water per side is required)
• The pump has installed incorrectly (water in and water out are the wrong way around)
• There is no electricity to the pump
• Debris in the filters to the pump, stopping the water flow. Click here to find out how to clean filters.
• The pump is faulty

In order not to invalidate your warranty the only thing you can do is to check the fuse in the plug.  If that is OK, please contact our technical team on 0191 516 2002 or email tech@salamanderpumps.co.uk for further advice.

Air causes a range of problems in pumps and can ultimately damage or break the pump.  The best way to prevent air getting into the pump is to ensure that a flange is fitted on the hot water cylinder.  Salamander sell an 'S' flange, which is a device used to remove air intake from the hot water cylinder from where the pumps draws hot water.  The 'S' flange sits on top of the hot water cylinder and will need to be installed by a competent and trained installer. Click here for further information on the different flanges available.

Most of our pumps must have a flange fitted to ensure longevity of life of the pump and for the warranty to remain valid. Click here for further information and exceptions to this.

Please ensure that the pumps' warranty and installation guide book is checked before pump installation.

Unfortunately, this usually means that the pump has seized.  Please contact our technical team on 0191 516 2002 or email tech@salamanderpumps.co.uk for further advice.

This is usually down to the natural flow of water, either the hot or the cold supply of water is not generating enough flow to activate the individual flow switches.  Salamander Pumps require 2 litres per minute per side to switch on.

If this is a persistent problem it may mean that you need a universal pump.  You can upgrade your shower pump to a universal shower pump by contacting Salamander Pumps directly on: 0191 516 2002 or email tech@salamanderpumps.co.uk.

If the pump is slow to switch on it could be because there is something restricting the flow of water.  This could be:

• Blocked filters - these are found on the inlets to the shower pump. Click here to find out how to clean them.
• Shower head is partially blocked with limescale
• Twisted hose to the shower head
• Possibly the wrong pump has been installed e.g. you have a positive head pump but there is not enough natural flow so you need a negative head (universal pump). Click here to find out the difference between positive head and negative head.

If the pump is activating but there is still low/no pressure to the shower this is likely to be caused by a restriction after the pump, this could be:

• Blocked filters - these are found on the inlets to the pump. Click here to find out how to clean them.
• Shower head is partially blocked with limescale
• Twisted hose to the shower head
• Possibly the wrong pump has been installed e.g. you have a positive head pump but there is not enough natural flow so you need a negative head (universal pump). Click here to find out the difference between positive head and negative head.

Universal (Negative Head Pump)

If your pump has one of these (pressure vessel), then the most likely cause for the pump running is that there is a leak somewhere in the system (like a dripping tap or shower, or slow pipework leak somewhere in the system.)

The easiest way to test if this is a pump issue or a leak, is to switch off water supply to the pump using the switches which are on the anti-vibration couplers (hoses) attached to the pump.  The diagram below should help:

If after the valve is in the off position (on both ends of the pump if it's a twin ended pump) the pump continues to run then it's a pump issue and you need to contact our technical desk either by calling 0191 516 2002 or emailing: tech@salamanderpupms.co.uk

Positive Head Pump

If your pump doesn't have a pressure vessel and is a positive head pump then use the isolative valves as shown above to switch the water to the pump off. If the pump turns off then there is a chance that water is going to somewhere in the system that it shouldn't be e.g the vent pipe or cold water tank. If this isn't the case then contact our technical desk either by calling 0191 516 2002 or emailing: tech@salamanderpupms.co.uk

Almost all of our shower pumps have been awarded the Quiet Mark, recognising that they are some of the quietest pumps available in the UK. However there are a few other things that you can do to ensure that your pump is as quiet as possible:

• Use a pump mat to reduce vibration, making sure that the pump isn't on bare floor boarding or on a shelf . Salamander sell a noise reducing pump mat, part number ACCPUMPMAT, available via our stockist network
• Ensure that the anti-vibration feet supplied with most pumps are fitted - these are soft rubber feet that fit onto the base of the pump.
• Keep the anti-vibration couplers (hoses) straight wherever possible and not bent more than 35°.
• Make sure that the pipe work is secured to the wall and not pushing down on the pump.
• Use a flange! Air in the pump will make it noisier and more likely to damage the pump in the long run. Salamander sell an 'S' flange, which is a device used to remove air intake form the hot water cylinder from where the pump draws hot water.  The 'S' flange sits on top of the the hot water cylinder and will need to be installed by a competent and trained installer. Click here to find out what flange is suitable for your installation.  

Click here to watch our video on shower pump noise

The most likely cause for a humming or buzzing noise is that the pump has seized.  This will probably be because of one of two things:

Hot water - The installation guidelines recommend that the temperature of the water going through the pump shouldn't be any higher than 65°C.  This is because some of the components within the pump can be damaged by hot water.

Air - Excessively hot water bubbles, and generates air.  Air can damage some of the components within the pump, particularly the impellers that drive the movement of the water.  If they aren't moving then the pump may seize and a humming noise will be heard.

Click here to watch our video on shower pump noise

If your pump is making an unusual noise then get in touch with our technical team on 0191 516 2002.

This is caused by a lot of air in the pump. If there isn't already one fitted, we would suggest that a flange is fitted to the hot water cylinder to prevent air getting into the pump and damaging it.  Salamander sell an 'S' flange, which is a device used to remove air intake from the hot water cylinder from where the pump draws hot water.  The 'S' flange sits on the top of the hot water cylinder and will need to be installed by a competent and trained installer.

Click here to watch our video on shower pump noise

If your pump is making an unusual noise then get in touch with our technical team on 0191 516 2002 or by emailing tech@salamanderpumps.co.uk.

There is more information on flanges further down the FAQs

If the pipework supplying the pump isn't secured properly, the vibrations from the pump may cause it to rattle.  Make sure that the pipework is clipped to a strong surface and that the pump is connected to the pipework using the supplied anti-vibration couplers (hoses.)  Keeping the anti-vibration couplers as straight as possible (bending no more than 35°) helps keep rattling noises to a minimum too.

Click here to watch our video on shower pump noise

If your pump is making an unusual noise then get in touch with our technical team on 0191 516 2002.

If your pump is making an intermittent noise, it is likely that it is starting up on its own.

First of all, you need to identify if you have a 'negative head' pump or not.  The majority of negative head pumps are easily idenitified because they have a pressure vessel like the one shown below fitted to the pump:

If your pump has one of these then the most likely cause for the pump starting up on its own is that there is a leak somewhere in the system (this could be a dripping tap or shower, or a slow pipework leak somewhere in the plumbing system.)

The easiest way to test if this is a pump issue or a leak, is to switch off the water supply to the pump using the switches which are on the anti-vibration couplers (hoses) attached to the pump.  The diagram below should help:

Then leave the pump overnight.  If the pump doesn't start overnight then you probably have a leak in the system which is causing the pump to kick in.

If you pump does not have a pressure vessel or you have been unable to resolve the problem, please call our technical team on 0191 5162002. 

Salamander Pumps use innovative technology to ensure the product range is quiet.

The CT Xtra, CT Force, Right Pumps and HomeBoost all hold the Quiet Mark award, confirming they are some of the quietest pumps on teh UK shower pump market.

They are designed to be as quiet as possible and to offer smooth running but there is no such thing as a silent pump.

Click here to listen to a pump in action and to view the noise of pumps in comparison to every day house hold items.

No shower pump is silent; however, the noise can depend on the style of pump chosen. Salamander offer two styles of pump for gravity fed systems – regenerative pumps, which include our CT Xtra, Bathroom and Force Ranges and our Right Pumps and Eve, which are both centrifugal

The operation of these pumps will determine the type of noise that the pump will make, not necessarily the volume.

Regenerative pumps (sometimes known as peripheral pumps) will use the impeller to move the water around the circumference channel in the pump body, where a stripping block then directs the high-pressure water from the pump to your appliances. It is totally normal for this action to create a higher pitched noise than that of a centrifugal pump.

Centrifugal pumps have the inlet on the end of the pump which allows water to fill the chamber and a hollow impeller that uses veins to throw the water outwards, creating a higher pressure, forcing it from the pump to the appliances. This action does not use a stripping block which means the higher pitched noise is not present.

Fitting a flange will prolong the life of a pump, and for the Salamander Right Pump range a flange is a requirement of the installation to ensure a valid warranty.

Flanges stop air getting into the water system.  Air in the system is called aeration and aeration can cause problems such as fluctuations in temperature, noisy pipework and in the case of the pump can lead to damage.

Click here to watch a video that explains how a flange can protect a pump.

A flange is a device that limits the amount of air entering a pump from the hot water cylinder.

When water is heated within a hot water cylinder, air bubbles form and collect around the side and top of the cylinder.  These bubbles (pockets of air) can be drawn into the pump causing it to be noisy and eventually damaging the pump.

A flange is fitted to stop the air from getting into the pump by making sure the water is drawn from further down the hot water cylinder, away from the air bubbles.  Salamander sell an 'S' flange, the 'S' flange sits on top of the hot water cylinder and will need to be installed by a competent and trained installer

There are various flanges available for a shower pump installation:

Surrey Flange (Salamander 'S' Flange

      Warix Flange

 Non-stop Essex Flange

The S-flange (Surrey) and Warix flange are both top entry flanges, meaning that they screw onto the hot water connection on the dome of a standard type of hot water cylinder. The pump connection for the Warix flange is from the top of the flange, this is different to other top entry flanges.

In comparison, the Non-Stop Essex flange is a side entry flange, which requires drilling into the side of the cylinder. This flange is best for when a pump needs to be situated above the hot water cylinder.

Some hot water cylinders can limit the type of flange used, such as stainless steel cylinders with a 22mm connection on the top,as a flange won't fit. In this siutation it is worth considering one of our  CT pumps as they can be installed without a flange if the pump is at the base of the cylinder with the cold water tank more than 1.2m above the top of the cylinder.

Your installer should check the installation guidelines to make sure that the right flange is fitted.

It is always best practice to fit a flange in any shower pump installation in a gravity fed system.

All Salamander centrifugal pumps such as our Right Pumps and EVE require a flange to be fitted for the warranty to remain valid

However, the Salamander CT range of regenerative pumps (CT Xtra, CT Force and CT Bathroom) do not always need a flange due to their innovative design, if the following circumstances apply:

• The pump is installed at the base of the hot water cylinder

• The cold water tank is higher than 1.2m above the hot water cylinder

• The pump is ‘teed’ off the first downward leg from the cylinder

A video showing you how to clean your shower pump filter can be found here

Cleaning Salamander Pump filters

However, we usually recommend that this is carried out by your installer.

A video showing you how to clean the filter in the Homeboost pump can be found here:

Cleaning the filters in Homeboost

However, we usually recommend that this is carried out by your installer.

Yes...Salamander Pumps have been compliant since the 1st January 2019.

The WEEE Regulations 2013 (as amended), came into force from 1st January 2014.

Its primary purpose is the prevention of waste electrical and electronic equipment (WEEE) and requires the re-use, recycling and recovery of such waste, so as to reduce its disposal to landfill or incineration. All electrical and electronic waste must be stored, collected, treated, recycled and disposed of separately from other waste.

The products of Salamander Pumped Shower Systems came into scope of this directive on Jan 1st 2019. Salamander are committed to recycling and to the reduction of electrical waste and registered as an EEE producer under registration number WEEE/MM5397AA.

Disposal of Salamander products with the crossed out wheelie bin symbol.

Salamander fully endorses the environmental objectives of the WEEE Directive and electronic products are labelled with the wheelie bin symbol, to alert our customers to the fact these products should not be disposed of with general refuse, i.e. in a landfill site, or with household waste. All electronic products showing the wheelie bin symbol should sent to approved operators for safe disposal or recycling.