We regularly receive queries from customers who are concerned that their pump has already been used because they find water inside the pump while unboxing it. However, the quality testing carried out before our products leave the factory means that they may contain water upon purchase.

Yes, TapBoost can be used to boost outlets providing drinking water such as kitchen taps.

TapBoost has a 15mm compression fitting on the inlet and a ½” BSP male connection on the outlet.

The 15mm compression fitting on the inlet allows TapBoost to be installed directly onto pipework and the ½” BSP male connection allows flexibility for TapBoost to be installed in a range of applications, allowing TapBoost to be adaptable depending on the installation requirements

TapBoost operates at 34dBA.

TapBoost can be installed on a hot or cold outlet in a gravity-fed system. However, there must be a minimum natural flow of 1.2 L/min from the outlet to be boosted.

TapBoost can be used on communal supplies provided that it is only being used to boost a single outlet within one property, as highlighted by the typical installations image. 

Unlike HomeBoost which adjusts its speed to continuously deliver 12 L/min, TapBoost runs at a constant speed. This means that the boosted flow is dependent on the incoming natural flow. For example:

When the incoming natural flow is 1.2 L/min TapBoost will boost the flow to up to 7 L/min.

When the incoming natural flow is 4 L/min it will boost the flow to 8 L/min.

The graph below gives full details of what boosted flow can be expected given the incoming flow.

When the incoming natural flow reaches 11 L/min, TapBoost will go into idle mode and stop boosting the flow to ensure it is never pumping more than 12 L/min, remaining in line with the Water Regulations.

TapBoost can be installed in combi boiler systems to boost either a hot or cold outlet.

TapBoost cannot be installed on hot water pipes/outlets from an unvented system - TapBoost should only be fitted to a cold-water outlet in unvented systems.

There must be a minimum natural flow of 1.2 L/min from any outlet to be boosted.

TapBoost is supplied with a filter pre-fitted to the inlet and a spare filter in the box. The flat face of the filter should be inserted into the inlet port until the flat face sits flush with the pipe stop.

TapBoost should not be installed on communal water supplies.

What applications can I use TapBoost for?

Despite its name, TapBoost can be used for various poorly performing outlets. Examples include (but are not limited to) toilet cisterns, kitchen appliances and some electric showers (please refer to the *installation manual* for more info regarding the limitations when it comes to electric showers).

TapBoost is designed to boost the water flow rate rather than pressure. TapBoost does provide an increase in pressure, but this is dependent on incoming pressure.

TapBoost should be fitted as close to the poorly performing outlet as possible.

TapBoost can be installed on a variety of systems, outlets, and applications. To achieve the best performance, it is recommended that TapBoost is installed as close to the poor performing outlet as possible. TapBoost and its power supply unit must be installed indoors. Please refer to the installation instructions for more information – particularly if TapBoost is to be installed in a bathroom or shower room.

Yes. The power pack and cables supplied with TapBoost must be used to power the pump. The supplied power pack and cables have been certified for use with TapBoost to ensure that they comply to the UK safety standards. The use of other power packs will invalidate the warranty.

TapBoost is not suitable for boosting multiple outlets.

If multiple outlets suffer with poor performance in a mains-fed system a larger inline pump or accumulator tank should be installed – click here to view our full MainsBooster range.

When more than one outlet suffers with poor water performance in a gravity-fed system then a bathroom or whole house pump should be installed – click here to view our full GravityBooster range.

What is the minimum flow rate required for TapBoost to activate?

A minimum natural flow rate of 1.2 L/min from the outlet is required for TapBoost to activate.

No, two TapBoost pumps in-line will not deliver double the flow and TapBoost must not be installed in this way. If a single TapBoost does not provide adequate flow, please consider one of our other products:

Our *MainsBooster* range features larger inline pumps and accumulator tank which will provide greater flow rates in mains-fed systems.

Our *GravityBooster* range includes pumps which will deliver higher flow rates in gravity-fed system.

Measuring the water flow is an important step in choosing the right pump. Water flow rate is measured in litres per minute (L/min).

To measure the water flow rate, you will need a measuring jug and a timer.

1. Hold the measuring jug under the outlet which will be boosted.
2. Turn the outlet onto fully hot or cold (depending on which is to be boosted).
3. Measure the water in the jug after 10 seconds, in litres.
4. Multiply the amount of water by 6 to measure the number of litres per minute.

For example, if you gathered 600ml in 10 seconds, to calculate the flow rate in litres per minute – 600 x 6 = 3600ML per minute = 3.6L/min.

TapBoost requires a minimum flow rate of 1.2L/min

The TapBoost power supply unit has a green LED which will illuminate when there is power to the supply unit.

The TapBoost pump is fitted with a blue LED to indicate its status. The image shows the location of the LED.

When the pump is in ‘standby mode’ (electrical supply to the pump but the outlet is not open) the LED will remain solid for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes the LED will turn off, but the pump will remain in ‘standby mode’.

A fast-flashing LED indicates that the pump is in ‘boosting mode’ (outlet is open and TapBoost is boosting the flow).

When the outlet is closed, TapBoost will then enter ‘standby mode’ where the LED will remain solid for 5 minutes as described above.

TapBoost intelligently monitors the flow of water. If the flow reaches 11 lpm or more, it will enter ‘idle mode’ indicated by a slow pulsing blue LED. The pump continues to monitor the flow but will not provide any additional boost. If the flow drops below 11 lpm, the pump will again switch to ‘boosting mode’ indicated by a fast-flashing blue LED.

TapBoost should never be installed to restrictive or collapsed pipework or supply, such as a lead main.

TapBoost can be installed on a shared main provided that it is only being used to boost a single outlet within one property, as highlighted by the typical installations image. 

Yes, the filter prevents debris and foreign objects entering the pump. Should the filter become blocked it can be removed for cleaning and then replaced. A spare filter is also provided in the box.

TapBoost can be installed horizontally or vertically however for optimum performance it is better fitted vertically. Never install TapBoost upside down or against the direction of flow.

The TapBoost pump is IPX4 rated and the power supply unit is IPX0 rated. The power supply unit and plug must be protected from water and moisture. Please refer to the installation manual for more information.

Yes, however there must be sufficient natural flow/pressure to allow the electric shower to operate before installing a TapBoost. Please note, many electric showers are restrictive by their nature, and you should check with your electric shower manufacturer to see if the maximum flow rate from the shower is already being achieved.

TapBoost has a 15mm compression fitting on the inlet to allow installation directly onto pipework. The outlet has a ½” BSP male thread allowing any suitable connection to be attached. When installed on mains water applications, no detachable hose sets should be used. If a flexible hose is used for connection to a gravity fed system, it should be no longer than 300mm.

The temperature of the water passing through TapBoost should be between 4°C - 65°C. Temperatures outside of this range may cause damage to the pump.

Yes. TapBoost can be installed in certain zones within a bathroom, however the plug/power supply must be outside of the bathroom and the installation must adhere to the latest I.E.E. electrical regulations. Refer to the *installation manual* for more information.

Despite its name, TapBoost can be used for various poorly performing outlets. Examples include (but are not limited to) toilet cisterns, kitchen appliances and some electric showers (please refer to the installation manual for more info regarding the limitations when it comes to electric showers).

First check to see if there is a green light on the transformer unit.

If there isn't then:

• Check the plug is in the socket fully and that the socket is switched on
• The fuse in the plug hasn't blown
• The power cable is fully connected to the transformer

If there still isn't a green light, then the power cable will need to be replaced so please call us on 0191 516 2002

If the green light is illuminated on the powerpack but the TapBoost still isn't activating then please check to see if the blue light on the top of the pump is lit.

If it isn't:

• Check that the cable from the pump is fully connected to the powerpack
• Then switch power off at the plug and wait 2 minutes and re-establish power supply to the pump

If the TapBoost still isn't activating then you need to call us 0191 516 2002.

If the blue light is illuminated then please check the flow rate to the outlet, you can find details of how to do that here.

If your flow rate is more than 1.2L/min and the pump still isn't activating then please call us on 0191 516 2002.

If your flow rate is less than 1.2 L/min then TapBoost won't work as it needs this minimum flow rate to activate the pump.

If TapBoost continues to run when the outlet is closed please check the following:

• That the outlet is fully closed
• If the outlet is fully closed and the pump continues to run, switch off the electrical supply to the pump, leave for 2 minutes and then switch the power back on.  Run the outlet and fully close it.

If this doesn't solve the problem then there may be an issue with the pump, so please call us on 0191 516 2002.

In normal operation TapBoost is relatively quiet so if it has become noisy it could be because one of the following:

• Air in the system - Switch the pump off at the wall and run the water through the outlet for several minutes to clear any trapped air.  Then switch the power back on.
• A blockage or restriction - Isolate the pump from the water supply, remove the filter washer and check for debris.  Clean the filter or if necessary replace it with the spare filter supplied with the pump.  reconnect the pump.
• Vibration against the pipework - if possible, secure the associated pipework.

Depending on the type of pump you have the serial number will be on a label attached to the top of the pump, on the vessel attached to the top of the pump, or on Homeboost and Combiboost it will be on the underside of the pump.

EVE	CTXtra CTBathroom CTForce	Right Pumps	HomeBoost CombiBoost	AccuBoost

You can also find the serial number on a sticker on the back of your installation manual.

The label will look like the images shown below, and the highlighted digits are the pump serial number.  Please be aware the label colour could be different to those shown.

Pumps manufactured after February 2021 will have one of the following labels - 

CT Xtra CT Bathroom CT Force Right Pumps	HomeBoost CombiBoost	EVE

There are three main types of heating and plumbing systems in the UK - gravity-fed, mains-fed with a combi boiler and mains-fed with an unvented cylinder. The diagram below will help you identify the correct system.

Salamander Pumps offer products  for improving water performance in these plumbing systems:

• For a gravity-fed system choose a pump from our CT Xtra, CT Bathroom, CT Force, Right Pump ranges or EVE. 
• For a mains-fed combi boiler system choose either CombiBoost, HomeBoost or AccuBoost.
• For a mains-fed unvented system choose AccuBoost.

No, we have introduced new policies, procedures, and new ways of working, in line with Covid-19 Government guidelines, to allow our customers to experience business as normal. Homeworking, increased hygiene protocol, new operation shifts, and social distancing measures are now in place to ensure the safety of our staff whilst allowing us to deliver high standards of customer service. 

Please click here to view our Risk Assessment.

Please click here to view our Health, Safety, Environment Covid-19 conformance document.

Please click here to view our Covid-19 action plan.

Yes, the work our sub-contract service engineers carry out for Salamander is critical and therefore been given Key Worker status by the Government.

Click here for further information on property visits and how we ensure the safety of you and our Service Engineers.

Yes...Salamander Pumps have been compliant since the 1st January 2019.

The WEEE Regulations 2013 (as amended), came into force from 1st January 2014.

Its primary purpose is the prevention of waste electrical and electronic equipment (WEEE) and requires the re-use, recycling and recovery of such waste, so as to reduce its disposal to landfill or incineration. All electrical and electronic waste must be stored, collected, treated, recycled and disposed of separately from other waste.

The products of Salamander Pumped Shower Systems came into scope of this directive on Jan 1st 2019. Salamander are committed to recycling and to the reduction of electrical waste and registered as an EEE producer under registration number WEEE/MM5397AA.

Disposal of Salamander products with the crossed out wheelie bin symbol.

Salamander fully endorses the environmental objectives of the WEEE Directive and electronic products are labelled with the wheelie bin symbol, to alert our customers to the fact these products should not be disposed of with general refuse, i.e. in a landfill site, or with household waste. All electronic products showing the wheelie bin symbol should sent to approved operators for safe disposal or recycling. 

A gravity fed system is identified by a cold-water storage tank, usually stored in a loft, and a hot water cylinder. These systems rely on gravity to force water around the system, with the height of the cold-water storage tank determining the pressure throughout the system. 

Cold water is delivered to the cold-water storage tank from the water mains. Cold water from the cold-water storage tank is then supplied to the outlets around the system, such as taps, toilets, showers and baths.

The cold-water storage tank also feeds the hot water cylinder, where a heating coil from the boiler or immersion heater will cause the cold water to become hot. Once an outlet requiring hot water is opened, gravity will force cold water from the cold-water storage tank into the hot water cylinder, this will then force hot water out from the top of the cylinder, delivering hot water to the open outlet. 

It is common for gravity fed systems to suffer with low pressure, installing one of our gravity fed shower pumps can help to improve the pressure, click here to see our range gravity-fed shower pumps.

Gravity-fed systems are either positive or negative head. Before choosing a gravity-fed shower pump it is important to know whether your system is positive head of negative head, click here for further information.

If you're unsure which product you need read our guide to selecting the right product, or use our product selector tool.

A gravity-fed system is either positive or negative head. In a positive head system a water flow rate of at least 2L/min exists from gravity alone. In negative head systems the water flow rate is less than 2L/min. 

When choosing which pump you need it is important to know if the system is positive or negative head as incorrect selection can mean the pump won’t work.

A positive head pump will only work in a positive head system and a negative head (universal) pump will work in both a positive and negative head system, so if you are not sure choose a negative head pump.

Click here to learn how to determine if your system is suitable for a positive head pump. 

Centrifugal pumps, such as our Right Pump range and EVE, use centrifugal force to increase water pressure within a system. Water enters through the inlet on the end of the shower pump, filling the impeller chamber and the impeller. As the impeller spins, water is thrown outwards using centrifugal force, this builds higher pressure within the chamber which forces water out the top of the pump.

This method of increasing pressure results in a higher flow efficiency than with a regenerative shower pump, so installations with multiple bathrooms can benefit from installing a centrifugal pump.

Regenerative shower pumps, such as our CT range of pumps, have a water wheel impeller inside the end of the pump. Water enters the shower pump through the inlet, the impeller spins the water around inside the impeller casing, building pressure as the water travels around the end of the pump. Between the inlet and the outlet of the shower pump there is a stripping block, this strips the water from the impeller and directs the water out of the top of the pump.

A positive head pump will activate when a minimum flow of water passes through the pump and out of the pumped outlet, such as a shower or tap, naturally (without assistance from the pump). The minimum flow rate required for our positive head pumps is 2 litres of water per minute (L/min). Click here to see what this flow rate looks like from a tap. 

You will need to measure the flow rate to determine if a positive head pump is suitable for your system. You will need to test all outlets, such as showers and taps, that are going to be pumped to determine if they have the required minimum flow rate of 2L/min. Watch our video to learn how to measure the water flow rate.

If you cannot measure the water flow rate, then you can check if the system is suitable for a positive head pump if there is more than 600mm between the base of the cold-water storage tank and the highest point in the system after the pump. For example, the illustration to the right shows a shower with pipework below the dotted line indicating the 600mm point.

If you are unable to achieve the minimum flow rate of 1 litre per 30 seconds from all outlets that are to be pumped you will need to install a negative (universal) head pump.

Knowing the natural flow rate of the system is vital when determining what pump is required. If any outlets (such as showers or taps) which are to be supplied by the pump do not have a flow rate above 2L/min then a negative head (universal) pump is required.

Watch our video to learn how to measure water flow rate.

Water around the pump doesn't always mean that the pump is leaking, sometimes the leak is from the pipes that are above the pump so check those first.

If the leak is coming from the pump then please contact our technical support team on 0191 516 2002 or email tech@salamanderpumps.co.uk

If the pump is positive head (doesn't have a pressure vessel) and is turning on and off during use, this is most likely due to the amount of water coming into the pump not being enough to make the pump kick in. Positive head require 2 litres per minute (L/min) per side to activate so it might be that the flow is stopping and starting. Watch our video to learn how to measure water flow rate - this will help to determine if the system has the necessary flow rates for a positive head pump. 

A negative head (universal) pump is indicated by a pressure vessel (as shown in the picture). These pumps turn on when they sense a pressure drop in the system. A dripping tap or leak in the system can cause the system pressure to drop which would activate a negative head pump, even though all outlets are turned off. This is called ‘hunting’. When a pump is ‘hunting’ you will hear the pump switch on for a few seconds when no outlets are open.

An isolation test will help to determine if a leak in the system is causing the pump to hunt. Watch our video to learn how to carry out an isolation test.

If the pump turns on while the outlet isolating valves are turned off, then it could be down to low or no pressure in the pressure vessel. Watch our video to learn how to check the pressure vessel – you will need a flat head screwdriver, and a foot pump with a gauge to carry out the test.

When a shower pump starts to display any of the following, an ‘open-ended’ test can be carried out to check that each side of the pump is functioning as it should:

• Low pressure on hot, cold or both sides of the pump
• Hot, cold or both sides of the pump will not activate.

Watch our video to learn how to carry out the open-ended test.

A positive head pump requires a minimum flow rate of 2 litres per minute (L/min) to pass through the pump and out of the outlet, such as a tap or shower. 2L/min of both hot and cold water is required to turn on. If the flow rate is not at or above 2 L/min then the shower pump will not start. Click here to learn how to measure the flow rate.

Reasons why a positive head pump will not turn on:

• There isn’t enough water flow to activate the pump, in this case a negative head (universal) pump should be installed.
• A blocked or scaled shower head is restricting the water flow.
• A twisted or damaged shower hose is restricting the water flow.
• There is no electricity to the pump.
• Debris in the filters to the pump, stopping the water flow. Click here to find out how to clean filters.

Watch our video to learn what to do when a positive pump will not turn on.

Unfortunately, this usually means that the pump has seized.  Please contact our technical team on 0191 516 2002 or email tech@salamanderpumps.co.uk for further advice.

This is usually down to the natural flow of water, either the hot or the cold supply of water is not generating enough flow to activate the individual flow switches.  Salamander Pumps require 2 litres per minute per side to switch on.

If this is a persistent problem it may mean that you need a universal pump.  You can upgrade your shower pump to a universal shower pump by contacting Salamander Pumps.

Air causes a range of problems in pumps and can ultimately damage or break the pump.  The best way to prevent air getting into the pump is to ensure that a flange is fitted on the hot water cylinder.  Salamander sell an 'S' flange, which is a device used to remove air intake from the hot water cylinder from where the pumps draws hot water.  The 'S' flange sits on top of the hot water cylinder and will need to be installed by a competent and trained installer. Click here for further information on the different flanges available.

Most of our pumps must have a flange fitted to ensure longevity of life of the pump and for the warranty to remain valid. Click here for further information and exceptions to this.

Please ensure that the pumps' warranty and installation guide book is checked before pump installation.

If the pump is slow to switch on it could be because there is something restricting the flow of water.  This could be:

• Blocked filters - these are found on the inlets to the shower pump. Click here to find out how to clean them.
• Shower head is partially blocked with limescale
• Twisted hose to the shower head
• Possibly the wrong pump has been installed e.g. you have a positive head pump but there is not enough natural flow so you need a negative head (universal pump). Click here to find out the difference between positive head and negative head.

If the pump is activating but there is still low/no pressure to the shower this is likely  caused by a restriction after the pump, this could be:

• Blocked filters - these are found on the inlets to the pump. Click here to find out how to clean them.
• Shower head is partially blocked with limescale
• Twisted hose to the shower head
• Possibly the wrong pump has been installed e.g. you have a positive head pump but there is not enough natural flow so you need a negative head (universal pump). Click here to find out the difference between positive head and negative head.

Universal (Negative Head Pump)

If your pump has one of these (pressure vessel), then the most likely cause for the pump running is that there is a leak somewhere in the system (like a dripping tap or shower, or slow pipework leak somewhere in the system.)

The easiest way to test if this is a pump issue or a leak, is to switch off water supply to the pump using the switches which are on the anti-vibration couplers (hoses) attached to the pump.  The diagram below should help:

If after the valve is in the off position (on both ends of the pump if it's a twin ended pump) the pump continues to run then it's a pump issue and you need to contact our technical desk either by calling 0191 516 2002 or emailing: tech@salamanderpumps.co.uk

Positive Head Pump

If your pump doesn't have a pressure vessel and is a positive head pump then use the isolative valves as shown above to switch the water to the pump off. If the pump turns off then there is a chance that water is going to somewhere in the system that it shouldn't be e.g the vent pipe or cold water tank. If this isn't the case then contact our technical desk either by calling 0191 516 2002 or emailing: tech@salamanderpupms.co.uk

When a shower pump starts to display any of the following, an ‘open-ended’ test can be carried out to check that each side of the pump is functioning as it should:

• Low pressure on hot, cold or both sides of the pump
• Hot, cold or both sides of the pump will not activate.

Watch our video to learn how to carry out the open-ended test

When a shower pump starts to lose pressure or stops activating on hot or cold water, then turning the pump around can help diagnose the problem.

Watch our video on turning the pump around.

Almost all of our shower pumps have been awarded the Quiet Mark, recognising that they are some of the quietest pumps available in the UK. However there are a few other things that you can do to ensure that your pump is as quiet as possible:

• Use a pump mat to reduce vibration, making sure that the pump isn't on bare floor boarding or on a shelf . Salamander sell a noise reducing pump mat, part number ACCPUMPMAT, available via our stockist network
• Ensure that the anti-vibration feet supplied with most pumps are fitted - these are soft rubber feet that fit onto the base of the pump.
• Keep the anti-vibration couplers (hoses) straight wherever possible and not bent more than 35°.
• Make sure that the pipe work is secured to the wall and not pushing down on the pump.
• Use a flange! Air in the pump will make it noisier and more likely to damage the pump in the long run. Salamander sell an 'S' flange, which is a device used to remove air intake form the hot water cylinder from where the pump draws hot water.  The 'S' flange sits on top of the the hot water cylinder and will need to be installed by a competent and trained installer. Click here to find out what flange is suitable for your installation.  

Click here to watch our video on shower pump noise

The most likely cause for a humming or buzzing noise is that the pump has seized.  This will probably be because of one of two things:

Hot water - The installation guidelines recommend that the temperature of the water going through the pump shouldn't be any higher than 60°C.  This is because some of the components within the pump can be damaged by hot water.

Air - Excessively hot water bubbles, and generates air.  Air can damage some of the components within the pump, particularly the impellers that drive the movement of the water.  If they aren't moving then the pump may seize and a humming noise will be heard.

Click here to watch our video on shower pump noise

If your pump is making an unusual noise then get in touch with our technical team on 0191 516 2002.

This is caused by a lot of air in the pump. If there isn't already one fitted, we would suggest that a flange is fitted to the hot water cylinder to prevent air getting into the pump and damaging it.  Salamander sell an 'S' flange, which is a device used to remove air intake from the hot water cylinder from where the pump draws hot water.  The 'S' flange sits on the top of the hot water cylinder and will need to be installed by a competent and trained installer.

Click here to watch our video on shower pump noise

If your pump is making an unusual noise then get in touch with our technical team on 0191 516 2002 or by emailing tech@salamanderpumps.co.uk.

There is more information on flanges further down the FAQs

If the pipework supplying the pump isn't secured properly, the vibrations from the pump may cause it to rattle.  Make sure that the pipework is clipped to a strong surface and that the pump is connected to the pipework using the supplied anti-vibration couplers (hoses.)  Keeping the anti-vibration couplers as straight as possible (bending no more than 35°) helps keep rattling noises to a minimum too.

Click here to watch our video on shower pump noise

If your pump is making an unusual noise then get in touch with our technical team on 0191 516 2002.

If your pump is making an intermittent noise, it is likely that it is starting up on its own.

First of all, you need to identify if you have a 'negative head' pump or not.  The majority of negative head pumps are easily idenitified because they have a pressure vessel like the one shown below fitted to the pump:

If your pump has one of these then the most likely cause for the pump starting up on its own is that there is a leak somewhere in the system (this could be a dripping tap or shower, or a slow pipework leak somewhere in the plumbing system.)

The easiest way to test if this is a pump issue or a leak, is to switch off the water supply from the pump using the isolation valves on the outlet anti-vibration couplers (hoses) attached to the pump.  The diagram below should help:

Then leave the pump overnight.  If the pump doesn't start overnight then you probably have a leak in the system which is causing the pump to kick in.

If you pump does not have a pressure vessel or you have been unable to resolve the problem, please call our technical team on 0191 5162002. 

Salamander Pumps use innovative technology to ensure the product range is quiet.

The CT Xtra, CT Force, Right Pumps and HomeBoost all hold the Quiet Mark award, confirming they are some of the quietest pumps on teh UK shower pump market.

They are designed to be as quiet as possible and to offer smooth running but there is no such thing as a silent pump.

Click here to listen to a pump in action and to view the noise of pumps in comparison to every day house hold items.

No shower pump is silent; however, the noise can depend on the style of pump chosen. Salamander offer two styles of pump for gravity fed systems – regenerative pumps, which include our CT Xtra, Bathroom and Force Ranges and our Right Pumps and Eve, which are both centrifugal

The operation of these pumps will determine the type of noise that the pump will make, not necessarily the volume.

Regenerative pumps (sometimes known as peripheral pumps) will use the impeller to move the water around the circumference channel in the pump body, where a stripping block then directs the high-pressure water from the pump to your appliances. It is totally normal for this action to create a higher pitched noise than that of a centrifugal pump.

Centrifugal pumps have the inlet on the end of the pump which allows water to fill the chamber and a hollow impeller that uses veins to throw the water outwards, creating a higher pressure, forcing it from the pump to the appliances. This action does not use a stripping block which means the higher pitched noise is not present.

Fitting a flange will prolong the life of a pump, and for the Salamander Right Pump range a flange is a requirement of the installation to ensure a valid warranty.

Flanges stop air getting into the water system.  Air in the system is called aeration and aeration can cause problems such as fluctuations in temperature, noisy pipework and in the case of the pump can lead to damage.

Click here to watch a video that explains how a flange can protect a pump.

A flange is a device that limits the amount of air entering a pump from the hot water cylinder.

When water is heated within a hot water cylinder, air bubbles form and collect around the side and top of the cylinder.  These bubbles (pockets of air) can be drawn into the pump causing it to be noisy and eventually damaging the pump.

A flange is fitted to stop the air from getting into the pump by making sure the water is drawn from further down the hot water cylinder, away from the air bubbles.  Salamander sell an 'S' flange, the 'S' flange sits on top of the hot water cylinder and will need to be installed by a competent and trained installer

There are various flanges available for a shower pump installation:

Surrey Flange (Salamander 'S' Flange

      Warix Flange

 Non-stop Essex Flange

The S-flange (Surrey) and Warix flange are both top entry flanges, meaning that they screw onto the hot water connection on the dome of a standard type of hot water cylinder. The pump connection for the Warix flange is from the top of the flange, this is different to other top entry flanges.

In comparison, the Non-Stop Essex flange is a side entry flange, which requires drilling into the side of the cylinder. This flange is best for when a pump needs to be situated above the hot water cylinder.

Some hot water cylinders can limit the type of flange used, such as stainless steel cylinders with a 22mm connection on the top,as a flange won't fit. In this siutation it is worth considering one of our  CT pumps as they can be installed without a flange if the pump is at the base of the cylinder with the cold water tank more than 1.2m above the top of the cylinder.

Your installer should check the installation guidelines to make sure that the right flange is fitted.

It is always best practice to fit a flange in any shower pump installation in a gravity fed system.

All Salamander centrifugal pumps such as our Right Pumps and EVE require a flange to be fitted for the warranty to remain valid

However, the Salamander CT range of regenerative pumps (CT Xtra, CT Force and CT Bathroom) do not always need a flange due to their innovative design, if the following circumstances apply:

• The pump is installed at the base of the hot water cylinder

• The cold water tank is higher than 1.2m above the hot water cylinder

• The pump is ‘teed’ off the first downward leg from the cylinder

Blocked filters can cause positive head shower pumps to be slow to turn on, showers to become less powerful and twin pumps to only supply hot or cold water. Cleaning the filters can resolve these issues.

Watch our video to learn how to clean shower pump filters.

A video showing you how to clean the filter in the Homeboost pump can be found here:

Cleaning the filters in Homeboost

However, we usually recommend that this is carried out by your installer.

When choosing the right product to boost the incoming mains water, it is vital to know what the natural mains flow rate is. 

Watch our video to learn how to measure water flow rate.

If the natural mains water flow rate is below 12L/min and above 3L/min, then CombiBoost and HomeBoost will offer a solution. With HomeBoost boosting up to 12L/min and CombiBoost boosting up to 10 L/min.

If you have a flow rate below 12L/min and need a solution to boost the flow rate above 12L/min, then you will require a pumped AccuBoost accumulator tank.

If the natural mains water flow is above 12L/min and you need a solution to deliver more than this, then you may be able to use an unpumped AccuBoost accumulator tank, provided that the pressure is above 2.0bar and the highest outlet is on the ground or first floor.

Blocked filters can make our products slow to activate and water to become less powerful. Cleaning the filters can resolve these issues.

Watch our video to learn how to clean the filters in our products.

If you’re following on from our FAQ ‘Why is the pump on the accumulator running on/won’t turn off?’, you need to open the isolation valves on the outlet hoses and the tank connector hose before carrying out these steps.

To check the pre-charge pressure, first drain the tank by turning off the electricity to the pump (if pumped), then close the inlet of the pump.

Next open all outlets in the property until no more water is comes out or it trickles out. Remove the black cap on the top of the tank, revealing the Schrader valve. Place a pump with a pressure gauge, such as a bicycle pump, on the Schrader valve and check the pressure. If the pressure is less than 1.5 bar, increase it to 1.5 bar using the pump. If it is already 1.5 bar, contact Salamander Pumps.

An accumulator tank is a pressurised vessel. To allow the incoming mains water to be able to force water into the vessel, the pressure within the vessel must be lower than the pressure of the incoming mains.

For AccuBoost accumulators, the pressure within the vessel should be 1.5 bar below the pressure of the incoming mains. This size of pressure difference ensures that the incoming mains can fill the tank and that there is enough pressure to force the water out of the vessel and to the outlet.

In pumped accumulator installations, the pump will ensure that the pressure within the vessel is at 3.0 bar and the pre-charge pressure of the vessel is set to 1.5 bar, creating a difference of 1.5 bar.

In unpumped accumulator installations, the minimum pressure of the mains must be 2.0 bar so that the vessel can be set to 1.5 bar below (0.5 bar). If the vessel is set to 0 bar then the positive impact of the accumulator is negated.

The pre-charge pressure is the air pressure stored within the bladder of the vessel. The air in the vessel is compressed by the water pressure, which pushes the extra volume of water out of the vessel. AccuBoost accumulators require that the pre-charge pressure is 1.5 bar less than the pressure of the incoming mains.

In pumped accumulator installations, the pump boosts pressure of the incoming mains to 3.0 bar and the pre-charge pressure of the vessel is set to 1.5 bar when it leaves our factory, creating a difference of 1.5 bar.

In unpumped accumulator installations, the minimum pressure of the mains must be 2.0 bar so that the vessel can be set to 1.5 bar below (0.5 bar). If the vessel is set to 0 bar then the positive impact of the accumulator is negated.

In systems with a natural mains flow rate below 12L/min the vessel will take a long time to fill, installing a pump will ensure that the vessel will be filled more quickly.

Yes, more than one accumulator can be installed into a system. Installing multiple accumulator tanks creates a greater stored water capacity and a higher flow rate (L/min).

Pumped accumulator systems cannot exceed 450 litres of stored water. For example, x2 450 litre vessels.

Unpumped systems have no maximum stored water capacity, however, please ensure adequate water turnover to prevent water stagnation.

An unpumped accumulator can be installed in a system with an incoming mains pipe in any material.

A pumped accumulator tank cannot be installed in a system with a restrictive incoming main, therefore cannot be installed to a lead main. If the system has a high pressure (over 2.0 bar) but has a restricted main, then an unpumped accumulator may still offer a solution – contact us for more information.

A sign of a restricted mains supply pipe would be a high standing pressure and low flow rate.

An AccuBoost accumulator stores both air and water within the vessel. The accumulator’s capacity is shared 50% air and 50% water, therefore a 450L accumulator will store approximately 226.5 litres of water.

The volume of water stored in the accumulator will vary depending on the pre-charge pressure held in the bladder of the vessel.

An accumulator stores water at pressure. In a pumped accumulator installation this pressure is built up by the pump whereas in an unpumped accumulator installation the water in the system is stored at the peak mains pressure.

A non-return valve (NRV) ensures that the built-up pressure in a pumped install and the peak mains pressure in an unpumped install is locked into the system. Without an NRV the system pressure would fluctuate with the mains pressure.

The NRV also prevents water in the system from flowing back into the mains supply.

No, bending the hoses restricts the water supply to the pump causing damage to the pump which could lead to the pump becoming noisy, and eventually the pump may seize. The hose that connects the pump to the vessel, is designed to have a slow radius bend, without impacting the flow of water.

The first pressure reducing valve protects the pump and vessel.

The second pressure reducing valve is to protect the unvented cylinder from seeing excessive pressure when the mains water pressure peaks. 

A pressure reducing valve (PRV) protects the pump and vessel from excessive mains pressure which could cause damage and eventual failure.

A PRV is included with AccuBoost accumlators. 

An accumulator tank stores water at pressure. When an outlet is opened and water leaves the tank, the pressure in the tank and system drops.

When only a small amount of water is used, the pressure still decreases in the vessel, so the pump activates to re-pressurise. When the pump is refilling the vessel and system, it needs to force water into the tank while pushing against the pressure generated by the water already stored in the vessel. This means that the pump cannot refill at 12L/min so it may take longer to refill the tank.

The pump on an AccuBoost accumulator is designed to boost the mains water flow up to 12L/min and to pressurise the system including the vessel within the tank.

When a tap or shower is opened water is drained from the accumulator and the system, the pump will then turn on to fill and pressurise both the vessel and the system, including any pipework. The pump will continue to run after the outlet has been turned off. How long it continues to run for depends on several factors including how much water has been used and the size of the system.

The pump on an AccuBoost accumulator turns on when it recognises the system pressure has dropped below its activation threshold. The minimum pressure to activate the pump on an AccuBoost accumulator is 1.4 bar.

When an outlet, such as a shower or tap, is turned on the system pressure decreases. So if only a small amount of water is used, the pressure may not decrease by enough to reach the minimum pressure required to activate the pump.

For the best performance we advise that the tank is installed as close as possible to the pump, which must be installed within 5m of the point of entry for the mains water,  however there is no maximum distance between the tank and pump.

Yes, the pump can be installed remotely from the vessel.

It must be installed within 5 meters of measured 22mm pipework (this can include a maximum of 2m of 15mm pipe) of the point of entry for the mains water into the property, usually the same location as the stop-tap, and must be the first thing in the system.

The vessel within the accumulator tank is rated up to a maximum of 8.6 bar, therefore, to ensure safety and minimise damage a pressure limiting device must be installed, this is included with AccuBoost accumulators.

An AccuBoost accumulator must be installed in a dry location, protected from temperatures below 4°C and greater than 35°C, such as a kitchen cupboard, garage, loft space or outbuilding.

Pumped AccuBoost models should ideally be connected as close to the point of entry for the mains water into the property, usually the same location as the stop-tap. The pump can be installed remotely from the vessel, but the pump must be the first thing in the system and be located within 5 meters of measured 22mm pipework (this can include a maximum of 2m of 15mm pipe) of the stopcock.

No. To prevent stagnant water and debris build up the accumulator tank must be installed vertically.

At least 10cm of clear space is required around the tank and pump for maintenance access.

It is rare that a system would have these measurements. These results may be caused by a restrictive mains pipe, such as a lead main. In this circumstances contact Salamander Pumps for advice.

A restrictive outlet may also give these results. Therefore, when checking the flow rate, you should open multiple outlets to get the most accurate measure.

For example, turn on two taps and the shower so they are fully open. While all are turned on, measure the number of litres per minute you get from all three outlets. Then combine the results together, this tells us the flow rate coming into the property -

In this example the flow rate is still below 12 litres per minute, therefore a pumped unit is required.

A flow restrictor kit is available adapt the factory set flow rates. The flow restrictors will either: 

• Increase the flow, which will reduce the time AccuBoost will provide boosted water 
• Decrease the flow, which will increase the time AccuBoost will provide boosted water 

An open-ended test measures the flow rate delivered directly from the accumulator and excludes any aspects of the system which might impact the flow rate.

The table below shows the flow rates, in litres per minute (L/min), of each AccuBoost accumulator. AccuBoost will deliver these flow rates for 9 minutes, which is the length of the average shower.

The values only show the additional flow from the tank and exclude flow rate from the mains and from the pump in pumped models.

It’s impossible to say what flow rate will be delivered from the outlet as aspects of the system, such as the size of pipe work and how restrictive the outlet is, will impact the flow rate delivered from the outlet.

See ‘What are the flow rates from each accumulator in an open-ended test?’ for the flow rates delivered directly from the accumulator, excluding system factors. 

An accumulator tank stores water at pressure. When an outlet is opened and water leaves the tank, the pressure in the tank and system drops.

When only a small amount of water is used, the pressure still decreases in the vessel, so the pump activates to re-pressurise. When the pump is refilling the vessel and system, it needs to force water into the tank while pushing against the pressure generated by the water already stored in the vessel. This means that the pump cannot refill at 12L/min so it may take longer to refill the tank.

The pump on an AccuBoost accumulator turns on when it recognises the system pressure has dropped to 1.4 bar. A leak or other pressure drop in the system may be causing the pump to turn on. Carry out the following steps to test if a leak or other system fault is causing the pump to turn on -

1. Turn off the outlet of the pump – on the outlet hose on the pump turn the isolation valves to horizontal.
2. Leave the pump for as long as it takes to normally turn on.

If the pump stops turning on then a system fault is causing a pressure drop in the system, which is activating the pump. Further investigate by a plumber is needed.

If the pump continues to turn on –

1. If there is an isolation valve on the tank connector hose to the pump, turn it to be horizontal to the hose. If the pump turns on when this is also isolated, this indicates that the pump is running to pressurise the accumulator tank. You will need to check the pre-charge pressure of the vessel is set to 5 bar – How to check the pre-charge pressure of an accumulator tank vessel.

If the pump continues to run, contact Salamander Pumps.

2. If there is no connecting hose, then check the pressure of the vessel is set to 1.5 bar.

Legionnaires’ disease is caused by legionella bacteria. The bacteria may grow when conditions are favourable, therefore it’s important to control the risk by introducing appropriate measures. More information can be found at https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/books/l8.htm.

We offer a range of tank sizes in our AccuBoost range so the capacity of the tank should match the usage of the property, ensuring adequate replenishment of the water.